With almost half of Thailand's urban population squeezed into the capital, it's understandable that most change in the land of smiles begins here. Change doesn't come much more sweeping than a coup d'etat. Bangkokians, who have a tendency towards great swings between political apathy and extraordinary groundswells of activism, were integral in creating the conditions for the coup that ousted former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra. Yet after everybody went home, the City of Angels settled into an uncharacteristic slump.

Two Bangkok-based authors,720 hours of on-the-road research,24 maps, countless tuk-tuk trips. Dedicated Drinking & Nightlife chapter covering Bangkok's chameleon club scene, as well as top spots for a quiet tipple. Local residents tell you why they love their city. Content updated daily - visit Ionelyplanet.com for up-to-the- minute reviews, updates and traveller insights.

INTRODUCING
BANGKOK
HIGHLIGHTS
THE AUTHORS
GETTING STARTED
When to Go
Costs & Money
Internet Resources
BACKGROUND
History
Arts
Architecture
Environment & Planning
Culture & Identity
Government & Politics
Media
Fashion
NEIGHBOURHOODS
Itinerary Builder
Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi
Banglamphu
Thewet & Dusit
Chinatown
Local Voices
Siam Square, Pratunam,
Ploenchit & Ratchathewi
Riverside, Silom &
Lumphini
Thanon Sukhumvit
Greater Bangkok
SHOPPING
Ko Ratanakosin &
Thonburi
Banglamphu
Chinatown
Siam Square, Pratunam
& Ploenchit
Riverside, Silom &
Lumphini
Thanon Sukhumvit
Greater Bangkok
EATING
Ko Ratanakosin &
Thonburi
Banglamphu
Thewet & Dusit
Chinatown
Siam Square, Pratunam
& PIoenchit
Riverside, Silom &
Lumphini
Thanon Sukhumvit
Greater Bangkok
DRINKING &
NIGHTLIFE
Drinks
Drinking
Gay & Lesbian Bangkok
Live Music
Clubbing
Go-Go Bars
ENTERTAINMENT
& THE ARTS
Theatre & Dance
Dinner Theatre
Kathoey Cabaret
Cinemas
Galleries
SPORTS &
ACTIVITIES
Health & Fitness
Activities
Spectator Sports
Continued from previous page.
SLEEPING
Ko Ratanakosin &
Thonburi
Banglamphu
Thewet & Dusit
Chinatown
Siam Square & Pratunam
Riverside & Silom
Lumphini & East Sathon
Thanon Sukhumvit
Greater Bangkok
EXCURSIONS
TRANSPORT
DIRECTORY
LANGUAGE
BEHIND THE SCENES
INDEX
WORLD TIME ZONES
MAP LEGEND